Your dog is where?

How many pairs of words are there in Dutch anyway? Surely he's going to run out soon? Mooi & Meedogenloos is the latest De Molen binomial to come my way. No style designation so I had to stare at the malt, hop and yeast listings to figure out what sort of a beast it was. That's proper geek-friendly labelling that is. I feel like I've achieved something before even bringing it to the till.

Home. Bottle open. Beer everywhere. Gush central. Lots of rich silky chocolate aroma from the pools of beer I mopped up with the kitchen paper. It has been a week for highly carbonated beer from the low countries. The tan foam settles stiffly, like an ice cream float. And underneath, a body as black as a certain Motörhead song.

Certainly chocolate is at the heart of the flavour profile: milk chocolate shading towards the mild roast of milky coffee. I'd swear there's some brown malt in here but the grain bill on the label says just pale, chocolate and cara. Overlying that sweetness there's a layer of pleasant sherry-like alcoholic fuzz. It's a mere 10.2% ABV but could pass for stronger, reminding me of a tamer, more coherent, version of Thornbridge Bracia. A slightly waxy hop tang finishes things off.

Flavourful enough to keep my interest. Simple enough to drink at a pace. Pretty and ruthless. Like the name says.