02 October 2019

Never mind the sugarbombs

I've been drinking Mikkeller's Spontan beers, occasionally, for eight years now. Yet I've never had Spontancherry, which must be among the oldest varieties. This is the Frederiksdal edition, with Danish cherries but still brewed in Belgium by Proef.

It's a deep deep blood red colour and smells of macerated and fermented red cherries, which shouldn't be surprising as that's presumably what it's made from. But it doesn't smell sour. The flavour continues in that vein: real ripe and juicy cherry flesh, but little more than a dry tang from the base beer beneath it. That's a very tasty combination but it's not what I was expecting. Confused, I let it warm up. A buzz of Brett funk emerges behind the jam, but doesn't subdue it, the heat from a frankly excessive 7.2% ABV becoming more apparent too.

Overall, I liked the strong concentrated fruit character of this, being a proper cherry beer but still reminding me of the sugary sweet ones I once loved and still carry a torch for -- Bellvue Kriek in particular. But... I expected more complexity and certainly more tartness. For me it's just not far enough from the sugarbombs to be taken completely seriously.

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