What's Brú-ing

It's an all-new selection from the reborn Brú Brewery today, each part of their "Urban Jungle" series of creative recipes.

"Contemporary pils" is one of those alarm-bell brewers' descriptions, saying "we got it wrong and are trying to style it out", to me anyway. Brú's Off the Hook is so proclaimed, with Mandarina Bavaria hops being what makes it special. It looks well: a flawless golden in the glass. The hops give it a peachy fruitiness that's much more a pale ale than a lager, and the body too is full with low carbonation. There is a marked lack of crispness. I get a little of the rubbery chemical taste found in a few of Brú's beers, right at the back. Overall it's quite decent. It's easy-going and fun, and did wonders for my thirst. The absence of noble hop flavours does mean it misses the mark on being a proper pilsner, however. Contemporary is not an improvement on classic.

The actual pale ale in this set is paler still, and a little hazy. Cheep Flirt is built for the session at 3.8% ABV. The aroma, made out of Centennial, is highly floral, offering a heady mix of rose and honeysuckle. Despite oats in the grist it's a little thin, and unbalanced by the hops as a result. The opener is quite a harsh metallic bitterness with added dandelion and spinach. That takes a moment or two to fade before the perfume makes a comeback, this time more fruit chews than actual flowers. It's that lemony Skittles-and-Starburst which forms the aftertaste. Better than spinach, I guess. More than anything this resembles the drier and paler sort of northern English bitter, with some mild American overtones. It took me most of the can to get used to it but I was quite enjoying it by the end. A session on this would be an invigorating affair.

Another 3.8%-er, though quite different, to finish. Blurry Furry is a blueberry-flavoured "Berliner weisse". There's a little of the blueberry syrup in its aroma but not much else, and the flavour too is quite muted. Perhaps I should be glad it's not a roaring mass of cloying sugar. Instead it's light and smooth, with no more tartness than a Haribo jelly while the fruit side is a cherry-sherbet tang rather than full-on jam. I like blueberries but this didn't really taste like them; processed cherry and raspberry is more the mood. It's easy drinking, though I think could have done with a deal more fizz to make it properly refreshing and closer to real Berliner weisse.

Each of these had something interesting or fun going on, even if they weren't stone-cold stunners. Brú/Carrig's experience in the pub trade shows through here, creating accessible pinting beers even when they're being daring. Here's hoping they'll be enjoyed in pubs before long, but until then, the cans are good value.