26 April 2021

And the Oskar goes to

The Colorado veteran Oskar Blues makes a welcome return to the blog; welcome in particular when it comes bearing lagers.

Mama's Little Yella Pils has been part of the range since forever but appears only sporadically over here. I grabbed it when I saw it. It's a spot-on 4.7% ABV and a lovely rich golden colour, more amber than yella and looking every inch the Czech classic it's modelled after. I get a mild grassy Saaz aroma, and there's merely a lacing of this in the flavour. Otherwise it's malt-driven: rich and biscuity with elements of honey and golden syrup. That sweetness is the only thing I can ding this for. While I loved the fullness of it all, I was expecting more of a pils crispness, and it doesn't really deliver on that promise. I'm kvetching about what is a perfectly fine lager, though, and "Mama's Little Amber Helles" isn't as catchy a name.

Edit: I hadn't realised I'd had this before, back in 2014. These things happen.

The yin to its yang today is Slow Chill Dunkel. I ran my eye over the Helles in the same series a while back, and quite liked it, but again quibbled over stylistic accuracy. The Dunkel looks the part: cola-brown though looking a bit twee in that most unBavarian half-pint tankard. There's an interesting peppery quality, or maybe cinnamon, in the aroma, with a hint of more typical liquorice. The texture is smooth and heavy, impressively so for the modest 5.5% ABV. All the right notes are hit by the flavour: caramel, hazelnuts, cocoa, and a fun lemonade citrus side which balances it beautifully without throwing it off. The subtlety thrilled me. American brewers have a tendency to go overboard on European styles, but this example has clearly been hewn from a genuine respect and love for proper dunkel. Three cans would fill a Maßkrug nicely.

I like when the package size is the worst criticism I can level at an American beer. Both of these are excellent illustrations of Oskar Blues's no-nonsense brewing acumen.

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