27 October 2021

Happy birthday EBCU!

The European Beer Consumers Union was established in 1990 so was due to celebrate its three decades in existence last year. But things being what they were, that was postponed to September 2021 and rather than standing about in a venue somewhere it happened on Zoom. To mark the occasion there was a beer box for guests with five examples to, if not represent at least nod to, beer diversity across Europe. London Pride (grand), La Trappe Tripel (lovely), Mariage Parfait (hello!) and two strangers.

First up is Reckendorfer Keller-Bier from Schlossbrauerei Reckendorf in Upper Franconia. It's an even 5% ABV and is darker than I would expect for the style, a definite browish-orange. There's not much of an aroma, just lagery grains with perhaps a touch of caramelised roast. The flavour is sweet too, though it's not as simple as caramel. There's a floral side, natural perfume leading to honey, though not heavily textured. Despite the murk it's all very clean, finishing quickly on wholesome brown bread and leaving no aftertaste, for extra drinkability. The soft and low carbonation helps that too. It's a subtle charmer this. I might prefer a bit more hop character but I like how it goes about its business. A clay mug and an actual keller would really improve it, I'd say.

From Spain (ish) comes Dark Way, an imperial stout by Espiga of Barcelona. It's a big beast at 10.5% ABV and has all the density to go with that, pouring a thick black with a shortlived dark tan head. The aroma is all tar and treacle, a sort of harshly dry sweetness, if that makes sense. The strength is very apparent in a nostril-burning waft on top of that. I get an unorthodox grain effect from the flavour: spelt, couscous and rye. It's very bitter with no lightening malty chocolate or coffee. There's a level of hopping just about discernable but it's a severe sort of vegetal bitterness which does nothing to lift the mood. This was hard to settle into. Big strong stout is very much my bag, but this one is how I'd imagine a brewer would create one without ever having tasted an example. Yes, it's dark and thick and boozy per the spec, but it doesn't go anywhere nice with that. I tried hard to like it but it's just not for me.

Is there a lesson here on the benefits of sticking to local beer styles rather than embarking on craft adventures? Probably not. I'm sure there are plenty of Catalan imperial stouts that I would actually enjoy. A big thanks to my EBCU colleagues for putting the set together, and here's to the next 30 31.

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