Taking to the hills

The erasure of "Bitter" as a category of English beer is to be regretted, and I'm reminded of it every time I see something that's obviously in the bitter or pale ale category badged with phrases such as "Hoppy Amber Ale". Like this one from Hobsons: Shropshire Hills. Not least of my issues is that "amber ale" is a style with a meaning, and while this is the colour of actual amber and the middle traffic light, it's not an amber ale.

Apart from anything else, the hops are to the fore in it and it is, you know, bitter. There's a classically English floral aroma with a hint of more new-world lemon, a result of English Cascade hops, mixed here with Challenger. The malt base is crisp, clean and cracker-like, its simple dryness allowing the hops to take the lead. The flavour is sterner than the aroma, flowers turning to a hard grapefruit pith and shred-filled marmalade. But, it being Hobsons, it's all expertly balanced and the finishing note of lightly tannic not-too-strong black tea means it's exceedingly refreshing and drinkable.

I don't complain about Hobsons much. They've been one of my favourite English breweries consistently for years. But this "hoppy amber ale" business is unconvincing, a distraction, and ought to be dropped.