Decaf

"Affogato" is a descriptor I regularly use for dark and sweet coffee-like beers, but this is the first time I've seen the brewery make it part of the spec. Planina is from Zagreb's Garden Brewery, a "double imperial affogato stout", and boasts lactose, cacao nibs, vanilla, tonka beans and, oh yes, coffee.

As usual, the tonka is in charge, with a strong kick of cinnamon in the aroma, leading to more in the flavour. Here it's joined by a surprise dark fruitiness, making it taste a lot like a mince pie, one sprinkled with coarse brown sugar. And with a maraschino cherry on top. The body is as smooth and rounded as you would want, warm but not hot at 10.3% ABV. What's lacking, unfortunately, is the coffee, relegated to a minor roasted role in the finish.

This is enjoyable, and delivers what it promises after a fashion: a big stout with added desserty characteristics. Having one of these now and again is fun but not exactly edifying. There's nothing here that isn't done on a regular basis by many other fashion-chasing breweries. Maybe I'm asking too much of my double imperial affogato stouts.