A reawakening

"Here at Galway Hooker, we are always innovating with new brews and new ideas." Well, no. Since the brewery became part of the Connacht Hospitality Group in 2022 they've stuck resolutely to their core range while furiously rebadging them as house beers for pubs around the country. But it looks like that might be changing, with two new special edition beers arriving last month.

Galway Girl is a bit of a route-one name for a beer from a Galway brewery, but maybe it'll help shift some units. It looks route-one too: a medium hazy orange, allowing a little more light through than the best of these do, suggesting it belongs with those examples made by breweries whose hearts aren't really in the style. Still, it smells bright, fresh and clean, of mandarin and satsuma. The flavour is not to style, and is delightful. Those fresh little orange citrus fellows are back, bringing a cleansing bitterness and a little resinous spice: not very east-coast but who cares? I got a tiny kick of dregginess in the finish, but it's barely noticeable, plus a not unwelcome spark of fried onion. The texture is light for 5.2% ABV, though not thin by any means. The brewery's ownership may have changed, but it seems they've kept the old Galway Hooker talent for balance and drinkability.

The companion piece is in a style much more to my taste: Baltic Porter. Wild Sea Swimmers is 7% ABV and does a reasonably good job of things, smelling bitter and herbal, all aniseed and warm red cabbage. I detected a very slight sourness too, but nothing off-putting. It unfolds in several different directions on tasting, incorporating soft and comforting cocoa, invigorating espresso, floral rosewater, treacle, toffee, cola and a greener vegetal bitterness than the aroma suggested. While it's as busy as it sounds, it's tasty too, the different aspects queuing politely and taking turns. I'm impressed by how close to continental Baltic porter it tastes, for a brewery that's never made one before. 

A sign of good things to come from the veteran Oranmore brewery. Shame about the 2007-vintage distressed lettering.