Stranded

After writing recently about Eight Degrees coming back to form following a change in ownership, here's another Munster brewery of similar vintage with a new lease on life. Although, for Dungarvan Brewing, it's a case that the founders have moved on and there's brand new management, albeit not from a multinational trying to make a quick buck. Things had been quiet in the latter years of the old regime but now here's the first new beer of theirs to come my way in quite a while.

In keeping with the local naming convention, it's called Clonea Strand and is a Kölsch. 4.5% ABV seems about right, and the slightly hazed medium yellow is OK too. Wholesome grain and some celery or fresh spinach hops make for an attractive aroma, leading into a crisp foretaste. It begins to break away from the style strictures shortly after this and reveals itself to be not a lager at all. There's a certain funkiness and a meadowy floral bouquet which makes it taste much more like a golden ale from Britain, and this becomes more pronounced as it warms. I found it had quite a lot in common with the brewery's flagship Helvick Gold, consistently my favourite of the core range. This one's finish of honey and beeswax is also in Helvick at its best.

I have no idea what Dungarvan's new owner's plans are, or if he'll be taking the brewery in a new direction. If so, he's starting from where they are now and what they've always done best: approachable beers in well established styles. I'll be following along and I wish him luck.