Upper Down

Co. Down's Mourne Mountains Brewery supplies the goods today: a random selection of new-to-me beers. That they're mostly stouts is accidental, honest.

Cliff Hanger wants to make it very clear that it's, well, clear. "West Coast Pale Ale" it says in all caps on the front of the can. It's not quite clear, however, with a little murk from a lack of filtration. That yields positive results in the flavour, which is a beautiful mix of zesty jaffa, some slightly harder pith, and dry black tea to finish. The aroma, too, is bright and orangey -- a light mandarin juiciness which isn't especially west-coast but is gorgeous. Unbelievably, it's only 4.2% ABV, and it's amazing how much hop intensity they've packed into that. The body is properly full and satisfying as well. This is seriously sessionable stuff, and while some west-coast fanatics may want it bitterer, I think the balance is bang-on perfect.

A pastry stout follows, with the tiresome name of Marvelous Stout, in wavy Wonka-esque letters. It's unusual for having cacao, vanilla and maple syrup in the recipe but hasn't been brewed to imperial strength, finishing at 6.8% ABV. It's a handsome fellow, a sleek vinyl black with a luxurious thick head of beige foam. Unsurprisingly, it smells sticky and sweet: they haven't skimped on the maple. That lower ABV does give it a certain lightness of touch, which really helps the drinkability. The first flavour out is milk chocolate, so perhaps the Wonka co-option is somewhat justified. Woody maple follows, while the vanilla is little more than a seasoning, doubtless helping to accentuate the other two without turning the flavour gloopy and cloying. Nice. There's even a trace of the base stout, a dry coffee roast, clinging on for dear life under the candy onslaught. This is quite a different take on the pastry sub-genre, and one that would bear repeating.

Strongest of the lot is Wildfire, an imperial stout, aged in unspecified barrels, to 11% ABV. It's dark and dense in the glass, smelling sticky and tarry, like treacle and liquorice. The mouthfeel is quite light, with lots of fizz: I had been hoping for something thicker and gooier, having opened it as a dessert. Still, it's not lacking in flavour, offering a big stout's hazelnut, espresso and dark chocolate, with a very light touch on the barrels, to the point where I assume they previously contained whisky but I wouldn't bet on it. It's a simple and clean sort, wearing its high strength lightly. I found it rounded out well as it warmed, so it best to leave the can out of your fridge for a while before opening it. Not exactly a crescendo, this, but good stuff, in a brisk and dry way.

Quality beer all the way through, here. I don't get to go drinking up north often enough to know how widespread the brewery's beers are, but it seems to be an operation that's well worth supporting.