21 January 2026

Of orient are

Beers from Japanese brewery Coedo showed up at Christmas in England, courtesy of my sister. I'd never heard of it, even though there's an address of a Dublin-based importer on the label.

The first I opened is in the rarely-seen style of imperial sweet potato amber, and I had no idea what that was likely to mean. Beniaka is 7% ABV and a cola brown colour in the glass. Although fizzy, it's plenty thick and feels luxuriously "imperial". Can't say I tasted much potato, but there's a pleasant woody spice: nutmeg, sassafras and liquorice. It's fairly sweet with it, showing a little Scotch-ale-style toffee, with the herbs helping balance it. This is interesting, with lots happening, but it's not a daft novelty, and makes for a very civilised digestif.

There's also a black lager, called Shikkoku. While it does have a proper lager cleanness, and is straightforwardly drinkable at 5% ABV, there's a dark-malt stickiness to it. A burnt treacle roast sits at the centre, providing a sweet aspect which means it's no simple German-style Schwarzbier, which is what I was expecting, and leans a little more towards Czech tmavý. A mild herbal bitterness is a nod to Germany, and keeps the sweet side under control. The label promises smoke in the aroma, but I didn't get that, and didn't really miss it either: I'm not sure it would add anything positive. I liked this. It's nothing fancy, and I doubt it warranted being shipped from the other side of the world, but I'll never turn my nose up at a well made dark lager. That's just how I am.

This was a welcome bit of surprise exploration. I'm now very interested in the rest of the range, and where I might get hold of some locally.

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