Afters

It was Sunday evening and I needed dessert. Step forward Wavy Gravy, an imp. brown ale from Third Barrel, "imp." meaning 8% ABV, for those unfamiliar with the terminology. It looks quite black once poured, though pales to ruby with the light behind it. The aroma mixes soft toffee and red flower petals, which is a good mix for strong brown ale, though it's not as aggressively fun-forward as I'd have liked. Smoothness is what this beer is all about. The texture is light yet silky, flowing past the palate in a siphon motion, making the conscientious beer writer careful not to chug it all down quickly. The flavour is standard brown ale business, but the style is rare enough for this to be welcome, and maybe a little exciting. To the toffee is joined lavender, milk chocolate, café crème, condensed milk and pink candyfloss. It's sweet, but not overpowering, with a lacing of crunchy roast to balance any dark sugar excesses. I had expected something more full-on and boozy, but am fully prepared to accept this altogether more subtle creation. I think the brown ale aficionados -- you know who you are -- will appreciate this. But it's also a good all-rounder; the sort of thing which shouldn't be as rare as it is.

It's not often we get an imperial stout from Third Barrel, but here's the latest: After Midnight, clocking out at 9.5% ABV. It's pure black in colour, topped by a thick settlement of beige foam. A surprise herbal effect greets the nostrils, all aromatic clove and fennel. Not very stout-like, but it'll do. It's big and dense on the palate, creamy and soft; feeling almost nitrogenated. The bitter herbal notes sit at the front of the flavour, and I really enjoyed their pointed and spicy contribution. This isn't one of those American stout jobs, where it's all grapefruit and pine. The front here is spearmint, rocket and cinnamon: spice of the old-world sort. Give it a minute for that to fade, and there's chocolate and toffee at the centre, matching the pillowy texture. It finishes sharp and vegetal, hopped up on green cabbage and cola concentrate. This is quite the tour of imperial stout characteristics, and a demonstration that you don't need double-digit ABVs to do it well. Quality stuff; just a shame that the brewery has reverted to crappy AI-rendered streetscapes for the label. This beer is much better than that.

So, I got my dessert.