Too far down with the kids

Creative and unexpected moves has always been the stock-in-trade at Rascals Brewery -- the clue is in the name -- but I really wasn't expecting their latest gambit. I'm taking it as an indicator of the ongoing decline of "craft beer" as it was once known. For one thing, the brewery logo is as small as they can make it on the packaging, suggesting not quite disavowal, but certainly a different angle from usual. And secondly, Chido is purportedly a Mexican-style pale lager with added lime zest, sold by the six-pack of 33cl clear glass bottles. For those unfamiliar with how beer is sold in Ireland, the bottled multipack format belongs exclusively to imports, at least since Eight Degrees tried and abandoned it almost two decades ago. But I'm quite prepared to believe that it's something that might work now, as beer transitions away from involved and fancy towards simple and familiar.

I began by testing it within its intended context. It was a sunny day and I was thirsty. I drank it cold from the bottle and it was fine: no more or less offensive than any of the beers it's designed to emulate. I was afraid it might have Desperados-levels of fruit-syrup sweetness, but it doesn't. Maize is listed on the ingredients, and that helps keep it crisp and bland. 4% ABV is lighter than the competition, and overall it was perfectly refreshing. Poured out, head retention is naturally not part of the spec, and it doesn't look anything like as attractive, taking on a greenish hue. The lime makes it smell rather sticky, but again, it isn't meant to be smelled. Slow and considered tasting led to increasing annoyance at the maize's corn-husk twang. The beer still isn't sticky, but it has the wrong kind of dryness, tasting cheap and overly processed, then watery in the finish. The lime is unobtrusive, but doesn't add fresh zing, more a sort of dull sourness. Cold from the bottle is very much the way to go here, take it or leave it.

One final point to add is that it isn't cheap. I paid €15 for the six-pack, which places it at a premium compared to the imports it's copying. We're not doing craft beer here, so why are customers still expected to pay the craft tax? I'm no expert on Gen Z, but if they do want this kind of thing, might they prefer it in standard cans for less money? While market analysis is really not my area, I can't see this being a success.

On more familiar ground, in late March I was summonsed to Rascals to assist with the finals of the National Homebrew Club's annual competition. Over lunch, I tried out two new offerings at the brewery bar. Pilot #148 is described as a Tropical Pale Ale, and I took it that this was a reference to the hops it used. That seemed to be the case with the big and sweet pineapple foretaste, and there was an oily element too, which I took to be coconut -- they're tropical -- but seems to have actually been lime. I often mix those two up, and assume they're chemically similar. A glance at the menu told me that this is brewed with real pineapple, and lime, and apricot too, though I couldn't taste any of the latter. It's a loud and simplistic beer, and a little heavy for only 4.9% ABV, but the citrus gives it a refreshing bite. If you don't mind a little syrup in your pale ale, it's an acceptable one. I wouldn't be surprised to see it graduate past pilot and into full production for the summer.

That the Rascals pilot scheme is actually in the business of trying out recipes, and not simply making small runs for the taproom, was indicated by the next beer. Pilot #149 is a Non-Alcoholic Pale Ale, and I doubt anyone tried making one of these just for fun. I'm guessing Rascals is gearing up to put one in regular production. Well, this is a candidate. It's not perfect, and is as watery as it looks: the wan hazy yellow colour matching a thin body and a flavour which tails off quickly. But before that, the hops make themselves known, with a fun and spritzy lemon flavour, akin to barley water or soluble vitamins. All it needs to be convincing, I reckon, is a bit more body. I'm sure there's a spare bag of lactose somewhere on the Rascals premises.

Together, a party lager and an alcohol-free beer suggest that a change of ethos may be afoot at Rascals. Or, perhaps more accurately, they're sticking close to the target market of young drinkers that they've always had, but the demands of that segment have changed. I hope there's still room for old-person craft beer in their brewing schedule.