A venerable glassful

It's been a while since my last Belgian oud bruin, that slightly sweet, slightly sour, medium-strong dark copper ale. So here's Paulus from Van Eecke in Watou: 6% ABV with a no-nonsense label that might be retro but looks more like an authentic throwback to me.

As honest and simple as its graphic design, the flavour starts with the savoury-sweetness of tamarind or prune, adding a dusting of red summer berries before rounding off on a balsamic sourness. The strength isn't apparent at all and only the building tanginess which eventually occupies the palate uncomfortably, stops it from being a quaffer.

Meatier than Rodenbach but a lot gentler than Rodenbach Grand Cru, Paulus is the happy medium of Flemish brown ale.