Melvined

I knew I'd heard of the brewery, but couldn't think where. That's what got me to buy these four, quite spendy, cans of beer from Melvin Brewing in Wyoming. When I got home and looked it up... Oh. Not cool, Melvin. Well, I've got the beers now anyway. Let's see how they shake out.

The weakest of the set is Hubert, a pale ale at 6% ABV. It's a slightly hazy dark golden colour and smells classically American, mixing toffee with grapefruit. The flavour is softer and more integrated: ripe peach and apricot, still sweet but not sugary. There's a pinch of green lime bitterness in the finish, though otherwise it's a very mellow affair with a nicely chewy texture, yet not too heavy. It's a calm and chilled-out sort of strong hoppy beer, one that I could happily relax into a few of.

Melvin IPA is the least-imaginatively named one of the set. It's 7.5% ABV and a deeper orange hue than the pale ale. This is quite effective in unweaving all that was good about Hubert. There's a similar classically American citrus flavour profile but it's heavy, sticky and boozy. I get lots of marmalade in the centre of the flavour, the whisky sort, by the spoonful. There's a pleasant peppery spicing in the finish but it doesn't do enough to balance it. By the end of the glass I was apprehensive about the stronger ones to come.

Drunken Master IPA pushes us to 9% ABV. The colour is heading towards amber now, although this one doesn't smell any stronger. It's more subtle all round, in fact. The carbonation is almost non-existent, giving it a wine-ish feel, while the flavour drops all of the weighty fruit of the previous two and goes instead for a clean bitterness, tasting of marjoram, rosemary and similar oily green herbs. It's a little on the dull side, laid-back to the point of falling over, and definitely doesn't present to the senses as much as the previous two. It's fine, though. The smoothness makes it a very uncomplicated way to get 9% ABV into your bloodstream with the minimum of fuss. Part of me feels this type of beer shouldn't be so bland, but another part is very glad it's not a sticky mess.

The sequence finishes with 2x4, pushing the strength to the two-digit limit of 9.9% ABV. This is another fairly plain one. Yes the alcohol is apparent, all slick and spirituous without being actually hot, while the hops bring a modest juicy citrus to the party. I miss the herbal complexity that the other one showed: this one is just hot orange cordial. Again, it's not offensive. The malt is kept on a tight leash and doesn't spread unwelcome sugar over the palate. But for the price I'd like something a little more interesting.

It turns out that the basic pale ale is the best of the bunch where Melvin is concerned. There are no missteps with the way the beers are designed, but the increase in alcohol comes with a decrease of fun, which is not how it should be. Keep it light, Melvin. Stay in the friendzone.