Back to Black's

No sooner had I finished my giant Twelve Brewers of Christmas run-down (see last month's posts) than I came across this pair, just too late to put them in. Therefore Black's of Kinsale becomes the first Irish brewery up for review in the new decade.

Lemonade Stand is the latest in the terpene-infused Kush series, and a lager. It looks handsome in the glass, a pale amber with a slight haze and topped with a very continental thick and fluffy head. Only 4.2% ABV it's a little thin, but it's definitely not boring. The aroma is striking, and quite difficult to describe. Dark apple juice, nectarine, orange zest and tinned lychee: all the sweet and juicys. The flavour has that too, though less intensely than the aroma. The fruit is balanced by a pleasing dry crispness. It therefore mixes novelty weirdness with classic lager qualities and I think it works. Might not be for everyone though.

The fruit theme continues with 8-Bit, a cherry stout including cacao nibs. It certainly smells of chocolate and cherry. The latter is powerfully present in the flavour -- jammy syrup and strong perfume. The cakey chocolate helps soften this, giving it a feel of Black Forest gateau in the finish. There's just enough real stout flavour to keep this from being labelled a pastry one: proper roasted dryness and even an echo of old-world hops. It's only 5% ABV too, so the added flavours don't have enough of a base to turn cloying. This is just daft enough to be fun without turning stupid.

Whatever you think about terpene lager and cherry chocolate stout as concepts, Black's can't be accused of brewing run-of-the-mill beers these days.