Not so witty

A few weeks ago I reviewed a pair from Belgian brewer De Brabandere in their Brewmaster's Selection series. I subsequently found there's a third one in said series, and tempting as it was to just go back and wedge this review into that post I thought it only fair to give the straggler its own day in the sun.

Again it's a twist on a standard Belgian style: witbier. "The microflora has been harvested from the oak foeders and unleashed into this beer" squeals the label. Before we get to that, the specs all seem quite normal: 5% ABV and hazy yellow with a fine white mousse on top. The aroma is interesting, akin to a dry white wine, which I'm guessing must be because of the oak. This comes right out in the foretaste too: a clean white-grape effect with elements of tart gooseberry and sweet lychee. The crunch of a wheat ale lurks beneath it but doesn't really integrate. The impression I get is of a very plain witbier with a glug of Chablis poured on top.

It's not bad, and will appeal to fans of balanced and refreshing sour beers. I thought it would be more complex, however, and the promise of funk isn't really delivered on. "Herbs" are listed in the ingredients but whatever they spent on those they wasted. While witbier began life as a sour style, I find it difficult to believe first-generation Hoegaarden tasted as simplistic as this.