Kinnegar's Hazy Session IPA is the 8th in their Brewers At Play series, and if you want an indication of how much of a stranglehold this style has on Irish beer, the 7th was also a hazy session IPA. This is slightly stronger than its predecessor: 4.6% rather than 4.2%. It's a beaten-egg yellow colour and smells both fruity and spicy, offering tropical mango and guava with pink peppercorns and nutmeg. Nice. A harsh yeast bite lets the flavour down, turning it cottony and savoury from the get go. And around that it's just garlic and water with a mere hint of grapefruit on the finish. Overall, a prime example of this sort of thing not suiting me. Too much interference from the bits I depend on brewers to take out.
Number 9 retreads some familiar ground for Kinnegar: a Sour Lime Gose, calling to mind the lovely lime & Basil Behemoth Berliner weisse they brewed last year. This is just 4.1% ABV and a bright shade of orange, exactly as hazy as the IPA. The aroma is disappointingly sweet: a sticky citrus candy rather than clean salt and sourness. Thankfully there's a lovely pinch of tartness waiting in the foretaste, setting the tone for a complex and serious beer, not ice-lolly daftness. The lime is real and oily and bitter, like the shred in lime marmalade. After the initial jolt, it fades out on a clean saltwater tang. To balance the sour it's big-bodied given the strength, with a lovely soft and effervescent texture. Gose purists will still rankle at the inappropriate flavours, but I found it a jolly nice beer and a cut above how most brewers do sourness with fruit.
The programme accelerates into double figures with a Rye Lager. I'm not sure I've ever met one of these before. It's a middle-of-the-road 4.4% ABV, and both looks and smells like a standard pale lager of no particular style: fresh bread and cracked grains. The rye makes itself felt in the flavour. On an otherwise plain base there's the sharp grassy kick rye tends to give, almost gastric in its acidity. But because this is a lager, it doesn't hang around and fades quickly, leaving just a trace of bitterness in the finish. The hops aren't listed but I'm guessing they're something traditional and German. They don't get in the way. This is no Rustbucket but does offer an interesting twist on the Standard Lager Experience. I guess that's the point of an experimental series.
The titular brewers of the project, then, appear to be having fun. With hazy pale ale out of their system I look forward to trying the next one: No. 11 Cherry Sour is on the way to me.
I loved Kinnegar's Scraggy Bay on druaght in those halcyon days when you could drink in a pub.
ReplyDeleteOnly ever saw Rustbucket in bottles and liked that too - in fact Kinnegar is one of the most adventurous Irish craft brewers going.
But the rest?
Yesterday I was stood in my local Supervalu and after scaling the Berlin Wall of Bud/Heino slabs found myself gazing at the same row upon row of IPA/Pale Ale offerings in the craft section when the drinks manager happened by.
" Any chance of getting something different in for a change, like Belgian or Trappist stuff and maybe a few darker ales for Christmas " I asked him.
He laughed. " Sure who is going to drink that stuff at €3.50 a bottle when there's local beer to be had.Mind you I can't stand that either "
The beers on offer at the nearby Aldi and Lidl tell pretty much the same story.
Which is why I go to a small offie tucked away behind a garage on the roundabout just outside Midleton with a fantastic selection of bottles and cans including Irish craft beer in styles that are not just hop-driven IPAs.
It's always busy so it seems I'm not alone.
Why don't they big chains get this ?
I've always taken good beer in a supermarket to be a pleasant bonus when it appears, rather than something to be expected. I also worry that supermarkets are not good for breweries. Jack Cody's, Kelly's Mountain and Boyne Brewhouse were all pretty much exclusive to supermarkets and none of them managed to make their business sustainable.
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