Casks from the Cellar

2021's doubtless plentiful sequence of DOT beers begins with this bunch, all launched in the dying days of last year. No IPAs this time -- we're going all-in with barrelly darkness.

The first is an exclusive to Blackrock Cellar, picked up on a sunny pre-Christmas spin to the coast. The big can is Taking Liberties, a barrel-aged red ale of 7.9% ABV. It needs a strong light source behind it to appear red, being otherwise stout-black. The aroma is sweet and slightly vinous: a touch of port and maybe some dark sherry. A lovely smooth texture and faint carbonation helps that sense, though the silky, creamy, milk chocolate foretaste brings us back to beer. The whiskey barrel elements are on the down-low, bringing a mild oak and toffee-pudding warmth to the second half, with a touch of sweet smouldering turf. While it's maybe a little plain given the heft and density, it can't be accused of being overdone. A nice bit of mellow winter fare.

I thought it would be interesting to compare this immediately with a more established DOT red. Rum Red Dark is now on edition number V. This is a blend of III and IV, neither of which I'd tasted, plus some fresh beer. The barrels are whiskey again, but ex-rum, of course. It's still pretty dark but a fair bit paler than the previous. And despite being stronger -- 8.6% ABV -- it's lighter and much more easy-going. There's a freshness to the flavour, a summery hum of strawberry, raspberry and sweet cherries. The age only really shows in the finish where there's a mature and musky oak spice, and that's what the aroma offers too. There's an almost sour briskness of a Flanders red in the smell. Neither whiskey nor rum make any obvious contribution to the picture, though I'm sure they play a part in a more subtle way. This wasn't what I was expecting, and I'm glad I wasn't hoping for a fireside sipper. I was quite content with some unseasonal summer sunshine in my glass, however.

It's back to Blackrock for the finisher, another annual reiteration. Joël's Barrel Aged Vietnamese Coffee Stout first appeared in these pages in 2018 when batch II was 6.9% ABV. Batch VI sees it grown to a strapping 8.95% ABV. The coffee is much more pronounced, though it's still smooth and sweet, with creamy vibes of Irish coffee and tiramisu. The wine thing is back: drier this time, more grape skin than flesh. Throw in a gin and tonic and you'd have all the drinks for a three-course meal. Again it's light-textured for the strength, and this time I would have preferred a bit more dessertish weight. Nevertheless, it's a fun beer and makes good use of both coffee and barrel ageing while still not going overboard on either.

This was a fun session, and showed lots of different things barrel-ageing can do, even in broadly similar strong dark beers. That my palate wasn't clogged with booze and vanilla by the end is a testament to DOT's skills.