Pomme and circumstance

I hadn't heard anything about this new one from Land & Labour when I happened across it in the off licence. Hard Graf is a graf: a mix of beer and apple juice, something you don't see very much of in these parts. The one White Hag did with MacIvor's cider, Silver Branch, is the only other example that springs to mind (edit: though see also Kinnegar's Olan's Tart and the comments below). Anyway, Land & Labour is always to be trusted so I didn't mind parting with a tenner to find out what it's like.

The label mentions rosemary, sage and black limes and I misread it, thinking these were actually included in the recipe (they're not). My mistaken belief was fully borne out by the foretaste which absolutely shows the oily winter herbal quality of sage in particular -- it dominates, the way actual sage tends to when used in beer. The effect is achieved with nothing more involved than spontaneously fermented beer, apple juice and 18 months ageing in wine barrels.

A lightly hazy yellow colour, it smells like a lambic, with the same sort of oak-and-gunpowder spice. Beside the initial herbal taste there's a sweetness which I guess they're calling black lime, but is more like lime cordial to me. It's interesting how it creates an illusion of sugary density even though it's actually quite light-bodied. As is often the case with fruited geuze, the base beer gets a little lost, receding to no more than a tangy sour seasoning in the finish.

Overall, it's a fascinating and delicious creation. I doubt I would have ever guessed what went into it. It's amazing what simple ingredients can do in skilled hands.