The Augsburg Confusion

It was nice to see Bavarian brewer Riegele show up in bottled form in Molloys. The selection of German beer available in this city isn't brilliant, but if you're picking a new brand to offer, this is a good choice. There were a couple I've enjoyed before, plus two new ones.

The first is not merely a Helles but a Feines Urhell: the original and best, so to speak. It's 4.7% ABV which, following my most recent excursion to Bavaria, I have come to accept as a normal strength for Helles. There's lots of white foam over a slightly wan looking pale gold body. Nothing surprising so far. The flavour is where it goes completely up the left. This is extremely perfumed, like actual perfume: an intensely sweet floral nectar effect with hints of bubblegum. I can only assume it's down to some combination of noble hops but it's not even close to anything I recognise. Huh. Luckily, its basic lager nature comes to the rescue and the strangeness doesn't last long. It has a proper white-bread softness and finishes cleanly, but still with a perfumey aftertaste. Once I was used to what was happening, it was fine; actively enjoyable. Be prepared for something unusual from this quiet Bavarian, however.

I've no idea what's up with the name of Commerzienrat -- "chamber of commerce"? -- but it looks much more like a proper Helles, being a rich golden and is the full 5.2% ABV. The body is fuller still and it has that floral bubblegum thing, just less of it, and it's much more complementary with the malt. There's even a mouthwatering hint of citrus bitterness. Really, though, this beer is more about the feels that the taste. It's rich and rounded and filling while still having nothing to put the brakes on your drinking. I downed a half litre and was completely ready for another one immediately. Mission accomplished, I suspect. It's highly enjoyable, but not in the way I'm used to. I'll take it regardless.

For all of its adherence to precise strictures of style, Bavarian brewing still has the power to surprise, not least the folks doing it at Riegele.