Cockles unwarmed

While we're still in the season of Christmas, here's an actual Christmas beer, acquired in SuperValu in early December. It's from Austrian brewery Stiegl, distributed in these parts by O'Hara's, and is called Christkindl Honey Amber Ale, part of one of those pretend small-batch series that big brewers like to do from time to time:"Kreative Braukunst. Slow Brewing". Yeah right.

It is indeed amber, on the dark side of it, and a little muddy looking. Honey is the only added ingredient so don't expect cookies or spices or the other stuff of Christmas beers. The ABV is a modest 5.7%, but there's 75cl of it to make up for that. There's a very strong sweet element in the aroma which I'm guessing is down to the honey, though with a suggestion of banana esters too.

Flavourwise, it's quite plain. There's a tendency when lager brewers make ale that they make them extremely clean, crisp and lager-like, which can be wonderful in a hop-forward beer. This isn't one of those, so comes across as a little vapid and lacking in character. Yes there's the honey, and the banana, and a little cake or cookie, but not a whole lot else, other than a dry and savoury buzz from the suspended yeast bits. I suspect that the chassis of this "ale" is a weissbier, and it should be approached as one.

I'm not feeling the Christmas cheer here: not an ounce of warmth or festive frivolity. Yes, Virginia, there is a place for cinnamon and nutmeg and high ABVs in Christmas beers. Don't let the Austrians tell you different.