03 May 2024

Browns around

Everyone loves an American brown ale. In fact I don't think I've met anyone who has expressed the contrary opinion, yet new examples of the style are thin on the ground around here, and most everywhere else. Luckily, this most basic need is met by the one Rye River makes for Lidl on a permanent basis, though still it's a cause for celebration when a different one appears.

This one is from Dublin's own Outer Place brewing and is called Silent Orbit. It's a big lad, at a properly American 6.2% ABV. The head is an attractive and wholesome off-white over a crystal-clear dark garnet body. It could stand to be browner, was my first impression.

The aroma is gently floral, a summery bower of roses and honeysuckle, with no more than a hint of roasted grain. It takes a bit of warming for the latter to unfold in the flavour, where it's mostly gooey caramel and a little milk chocolate, with merely the faintest bite of dry toastiness at the end. The flowers continue to billow in the breeze, showing that there's definitely hops involved here, just not at punchy American levels. 

I liked the soft subtlety here: too many breweries don't bother with that, especially if they're putting "American" on the label. At the same time, the label claims it's late- and dry-hopped with Idaho 7, Ekuanot and Galaxy, and I think I'm within my rights to expect more fruity fun from all that, as well as a bigger malt-driven body, given the strength. I can't be too critical as it's a fine and well-made beer, deliciously drinkable in the style's own way. A few extra kilos of yee-haw wouldn't have gone amiss, however.

It seems Rathcoole has become a new centre of excellence for brown ale, as not long after, Outer Place's host brewery Lineman released a new one of their own. Big Beans is a coffee-enhanced version of their Big Calm, released in 2021.

That one was not short of coffee character, befitting the style. Adding actual coffee changes it significantly, reducing the roast and adding a cakey sweetness, presumably from the oil in the beans. It's not subtle, showing all the taste and aroma of actual cold-brew. Served cold on draught, the mouthfeel is a little thin for 6% ABV but it does round out as it warms. If the barman in The Black Sheep offers you a chilled glass, just say no. I should have known that.

While this is tasty, I couldn't help thinking it's better suited to coffee beer fans than the brown ale brigade. The addition has kind of replaced the brown ale character, to the point where the base beer could have been anything.

All my gripes today are minor ones. These are both very good beers, and appreciated especially for not being yet more IPA. I have no objection to even more brown ale coming out of Lineman's brewery, or anyone else's.

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