I was quite surprised to see O'Hara's having done a collaboration with De Molen. Not for any good reason, it's just that the two breweries occupy very different spaces in my beer awareness. One thing I think they do have in common is an over-fondness for nitrogenation, so it shouldn't be surprising that the result here comes in a nitro can. It's an "Imperial Irish Red Ale" (like that's a thing) called Fireside & Fable.Surging pleasingly while pouring, it settles to a dark garnet red with a wholesome-looking pillow of cream on top. It smells dangerously sweet: a whole candy shop of sticky sugar-based mess, with added vanilla and white chocolate for extra cloy. The mouthfeel is heavy and hot; creamy, yes, but there's a reason cream isn't normally considered drinkable. There's chewing to be done with this, while the big 8% ABV adds to the effect with a gullet-strafing burn. At least the flavour is somewhat restrained, staying in the candy shop but adding a more wholesome selection of hazelnut, praline, buttery toffee and shortbread. I took a few moments to adjust to what it's doing -- one does not find many beers of this kind on a daily basis -- but once I was accustomed, I enjoyed the softly sippable combination of textures and tastes.
This is a beer to shut me up about nitro for a minute or two: there is plenty of flavour, and while it may have turned out quite cloying if carbonated, I can't complain when nitrogen's deadening effect successfully balances the beer. Observation two is that a bit of barley wine energy really suits the Irish red style. Boost that gravity and hold back on the aroma hops: there's a niche available somewhere adjacent to the strong Scottish ale genre. Thanks to both breweries for showing the way, and with an extra poignancy now that the permanent closure of De Molen has been announced for later this year.
That's a real shame about de Molen - the writing's been on the wall since the takeover, though. (Admittedly, by the same logic the writing's been on the wall for Fuller's for quite a while now, let alone Dark Star. But I'd rather keep my expectations low and occasionally be proved wrong (this may be why I was such a popular teacher).) [Phil, baffled by blogging software]
ReplyDeleteAt least there's some level of vertical integration with Fullers: the pubs may be a separate company but there's a marketing advantage in presenting them as if they're still joined up. And sub-brands like Dark Star are useful to give the illusion of choice. I'm really pleased to see that they're giving De Molen's annual festival one last throw this year.
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