Belgiany

Everyone copies Belgian ales, while the Belgians try and do more interesting things with their brewing legacy. Here are some beers straddling the boundaries of tradition and innovation, Belgian-style.

In 2024, Weihenstephan hosted St Bernardus for the brewing of a Belgian-style golden ale. Now the Belgians have returned the favour at Watou and enlisted the Bavarians' assistance for the brewing of an unfiltered Helles, Kombine. At 6% ABV, the strength is decidedly Belgian and far higher than a German Helles would be. It's slightly cloudy, in a wholesome Kellerbier way. The gravity gives it plenty of density and it's a filling sipper. That in turn provides lots of room for flavour, which opens on an intensely floral honey sweetness, balanced out by malt crispness and a slightly herbal sharpness from presumably German hops. Unsurprisingly, it tastes more like a bock than any other lager style, and runs a consequent risk of turning cloying and sticky. I think it manages to avoid that, however: cleanness in the face of strength being the typically Belgian attribute in evidence here. If the aim was for St Bernardus to make something that tasted authentically German, then I think they've succeeded, adding the luxurious heft of a Belgian golden ale to the offer. It's unusual without at all being gimmicky, which I enjoyed.

Last year's Christmas beer box from Martin's of Fairview included a tripel by Hope which the shop is now selling off at a discount and I bought a bottle. It's 8% ABV and I suspect it may be the same beer which Hope released as a limited edition of their own a few months later. Perhaps this description should be in the vintage section of my web presence. It's a murky amber colour and tragically flat in the glass, feeling a bit hot and soupy. The flavour is very sweet, loaded up with tinned pears and orange candy, plus a harsh fennel bitterness that does nothing for balance. Yes, I think this is the same beer, and the months of cellaring have not made it any better. The elements of tripel are here, but they're not assembled in the same way that they are in classic Belgian examples, lacking subtlety, integration, carbonation and any sort of charm. It's strong and flavourful -- I'll give it that -- but it's not good beer, and really not up to Hope's standard.

The grand finale is a beer I had been on the lookout for but hadn't seen until I found it on the same visit to Martin's. Duvel Imperial Blond is intriguing because they don't seem to have done anything different, other than boost the gravity. The lower-strength versions serve a purpose, especially on draught, but one beefed up (slightly) to 10% ABV? That doesn't seem like it would add anything positive. It looks exactly the same as Duvel; maybe a little darker, but still very much golden, with the same tall frothy head. And it tastes identical: the same zesty citrus and peppery spice, with minimal alcohol heat. It's lovely, but I don't get it. Were there really people out there who wanted the same Duvel beer at 6.66%, 8.5% and 10% ABV? They've been given it, and the only question is why. By rights this beer should have more of everything: more spice, more zing, more substance. Instead, it's same-old same-old, but since that's the Duvel same-old, it's beautiful, and magnificently drinkable above all. I don't think I felt the extra alcohol, except for a growing warmth in the belly which I don't get from regular Duvel. While I'm glad I tried it, I won't be trading up from the Duvel my local supermarket sells, nor opining loudly that this one is the brewery's best. The extra poke seems more of an inconvenience than an enhancement.

It's hard to see where there are improvements to be made on classic styles the way the established Belgian breweries produce them. I wonder in particular which side has learned the most from the St Bernardus and Weihenstephan collaboration projects.