Special import stout

Foreign interpretations of Irish beer styles, and stout in particular, is something of a research interest of mine. They're not often sold in Ireland, for perhaps obvious reasons, so I was drawn to O'Ness by Prague brewery Sibeeria as much for its novelty value as anything else.

Not that there's anything particularly novel about a 4% ABV stout, packaged carbonated in its half-litre can. That results in a lovely pure-black pint with a wholesome tan-coloured stack of froth on top. The aroma is lightly roasty, with a Guinness-like tang as well, hinting at blackberry and plum. I noticed it poured quite thickly, and indeed the texture is remarkably heavy, making it feel like a much stronger beer.

And that's true of the flavour as well. It's primarily a bitter beer, with the dark fruit element meeting a quite severe herbal sharpness; an apothecary shop of aniseed, thyme, yarrow and bay leaf. There's a dusting of very dark cocoa powder and a sticky tang of molasses, but without any of the sweetness. A dry roasted finish skirts acridity but stays manageably drinkable. It's quite a workout for the palate, but everything hangs together extremely well.

Drinkers used to the sweet dark beers of Czechia, or indeed the creamy blandness of Guinness, will get a surprise from this one. No punches are pulled and it exhibits the assertive grown-up bitterness of an export-strength stout at a barely credible low ABV. I found it impossible to drink fast, and enjoyed lingering over it. There really aren't many Irish brewers making session-strength stout as flavourful as this. If, like me, you're still mourning the death of Wrassler's XXXX, here's a worthy substitute.