Fuerst principles

I associate Berlin brewer Fuerst Wiacek with world craft styles (ie IPA) more than with anything traditionally German, but today's two represent their take on Bavarian standards. I was curious to find out if they would do anything craftish with them.

Festbier Lager is first, given no fancy name, though is maybe a little light in strength at 5.5% ABV. And it's hazy, suggesting perhaps something of a Festbier-Kellerbier hybrid. The aroma does suggest that Kellerbier crispness, with a slight rough and fusty burlap element. The grain is present in the flavour too, right at the front, and it's only in the later stages that it exhibits the polished smoothness of Festbier proper. That comes with a slightly syrupy sweetness, so while it might not be full strength, it tastes it, and more. The hop side of the equation is lacking, so balance is an issue. The sweetness continues to build to an unpleasant level, and there's a weirdly tangy countermelody, resembling those sugar-coated sour jellies. I was very glad I only had a craft 440ml can rather than a full Maß. The established brewers of this kind of beer do it better than this.

And with sweet being a problem there, I was downright apprehensive about Provocator, the doppelbock, which followed. Here the appearance is spot-on: a medium chestnut mahogany arrangement. Its ABV is a generous 8%. The style demands richness and warmth, and the demand is reasonably well met here. There's still a bit of a tang, suggesting copper or zinc to me, but it's well masked by bourbon biscuit, café latte, nougat and soft caramel. The roasted side of that mélange is accentuated in the finish, and there's a very slight herbal bite too, though savoury more than bitter. Anyone looking for serious doppelbock heat will be disappointed; instead there's balance. I'm still not sure that the tangy factor is a benefit rather than a flaw, but this passes muster as doppelbock. It would make an acceptable substitute when none of the proper ones are available.

All told, however, I think Fuerst Wiacek is better sticking to the IPAs. There's less to go wrong there. Throw in a few buckets of American hops and everybody's happy.