Medium roast

Autumnal red and brown is the palette for today's selection, as we face into the depths of winter proper.

Once upon a time, Rye River brewed an own-brand American-style brown ale for Lidl. It was a somewhat overlooked masterpiece, and then just as I was establishing it as regular in my fridge, it disappeared. Not long after, rival supermarket Dunnes added a new beer to its house label, Grafters. Night Shift is an American-style brown ale, brewed by Rye River. Has the original been saved, but moved?

The ABV matches, and it's the same deep garnet shade with a solid, reliable head. The American hops are present from the start of the aroma, with the almost-acrid sharpness of a good black IPA, mixing hot tar and pungent spices. It's smooth and creamy, heavy enough to be satisfying, yet with perfect drinkability. The initial flavour of soft milk chocolate and toffee matches this perfectly, and only in the finish do the spiky, spicy hops reassert themselves, wrapping the experience with a bracing blast of bitterness which adds a whole extra dimension. I'm reasonably sure this is the Lidl recipe. It's worth making a special trip to Dunnes for, and at €2.10 is a steal.

A year or so after Changing Times landed into Dublin's pubs, it's added a fourth beer to the line-up. Following the lager, pale ale and stout, the macro-clone range continues with a red ale. Bleedin Red is 4.2% ABV and a lovely clear dark copper colour.  It's topped with a firm and lasting head which makes it look nitrogenated but the very busy fizz apparent from the first sip tells me otherwise. There's not much by way of aroma, while the flavour leads on a harshly metallic bitterness and finishes on a nasty soapy twang. While it looks all caramelised, there is precious little crystal malt in evidence. The second half of the pint gave me aspirin, rubber, boiled spinach and beetroot, and while I'm certain that's all down to legitimate English hops, pleasant drinking it does not make. Red ale is a hard sell at the best of times, hence the handful of people claiming it's underrepresented on the Irish bar. Sales figures from this one will test if it's really something people want. Me, I think I'd prefer the watery embrace of Smithwick's to this rough character.

Finally, we have Malt Fiction, badged simply as a red ale, produced by BrewDog in Berlin and on sale in these parts at Aldi for €2 the 33cl can. It's quite red and completely clear, with a loose-bubbled head. The aroma has a sweet candy fruit thing, smelling like raspberry and strawberry, with a hint of richer malt behind. 5am Saint came immediately to mind. There's a lovely weight to this, derived from a malt base which manifests in the flavour as cake and biscuits: a little treacle, a little chocolate and lots of toffee. But it's not sickly and is very deftly balanced by the new-world hops, which add the summer fruits of the aroma, along with candied lemon and oily little sparks of pine bitterness. It's rather charming, and a world apart from my slightly dismal experience at the company's Dublin bar recently. I have a lot of time for American amber ale as a style, especially when the brewery doesn't try too hard on the bitterness. This is an excellent example, and if you're under forty and therefore too young to have ever drank one, here's your chance. Hashtag amber ale comeback.

There's definitely some good autumnal drinking available at the supermarkets. I'm not sure I'd bother searching the pubs though, if you're a Dubliner.

Journey to the Centre

Events are back! Hurrah! My first out-of-town Irish beer excursion since February 2020 was to Athlone, for the third birthday of Dead Centre Brewing's bar, and a first in-person social event by one of the pandemic's great success stories, Craic Beer Community. CBC had teamed up with a number of Irish breweries to create a set of specially-created beers and this was an opportunity to try some of them on tap.

But before that, and since I was early, some new ones from Dead Centre itself. Brand new was a stout, named after a long-gone Athlone brewery: Messrs Boswell. As it's a very sessionable 3.9% ABV I figured a pint was called for. There's a very light touch on the nitrogen here, making it smooth but not excessively foamy. It's pretty much on point for an everyday drinking stout, hitting the right notes of chocolate, coffee and dry cereal with a pinch of Guinness-like sourness that tends to be missing from other microbrewed examples. While designed to be accessible and unchallenging, there's enough of interest here to make it properly engaging. Nicely done.

I followed that with an English-style bitter called Six Decades. I wasn't so impressed with this, and I think that the cold keg serve didn't do it any favours. At 4.5% ABV it's on the strong side for the genre, and while accomplished bitter brewers across the water can build in a lot of character on that spec, this one is a little thin and dull. A modicum of marmalade isn't quite enough to give it a personality and I found myself at the bottom of my pint without much else to say about it, and not for want of trying. Moving on...

Triple A was next, billed as a brown ale but not very brown with it, an only slightly darker shade of amber than the bitter. That hides the whopping ABV of 7.3%. Classic American hops Cascade and Centennial meet traditional English Northern Brewer, resulting in a curious but perfectly pleasant minty herbal foretaste with a peppery spice after. Some citrus arrives late, but no more intense than you'd get from lemon sherbet. I like a good bit of chocolate and coffee in a brown ale and that's not on offer here, with merely a light caramel effect as the only nod to its dark malts. Maybe again it was the cold draught serve to blame, but I expected more from this. Perhaps the canned version is a better option.

Finally from the regular line-up there was Trif3cta. Stylewise it's its own thing, described on the badge as a "dark ale with ginger and lime, aged in rum barrels", so kind of like a Dark & Stormy cocktail, then, only stronger at 8.3% ABV. Here's the brownness I would have liked in the previous one: a deep and rich shade, and there's a smoothness of texture which matches that perfectly. Despite the spice and spirit, it's the lime which greets the palate first, setting a lovely clean spritz on which it builds the heavier and sweeter malt. Add in the ginger and you get a kind of ginger cake effect which I really enjoyed. While I like rum, I tend not to be much of a fan of other rum-aged drinks -- they can be a bit cloying and overpowering. This isn't one of those, and while I'm sure the rum makes a contribution, the beer doesn't honk of it. Only the fact that the evening was still young had me taking my time over this, because it's very tasty and dangerously easy to drink.

And so to the three specials. Brewery representatives were conveniently on hand to talk us through what they had made.

Of the three, I was particularly interested in Hope's Craic'd Black Pepper Saison: I like black pepper flavours in beer, whether from peppercorns or a spicy Belgian farmhouse yeast, and this promised both. Alas it delivered neither. The pale blonde 6%-er tastes predominantly of banana. Richie said he didn't fancy letting a voracious saison yeast loose in the brewery so went with something plainer, a descendant or close relative of La Chouffe's yeast. That should have given some modicum of spice but I really couldn't taste it. The pepper flavour from the pepper was present to an extent, but without the kick I craved. The result is a very average sort of sweet blonde ale and not something I would normally cross half the country to taste.

Ballykilcavan had brought their own cask engine to serve Export Bambrick's, a souped up 8% ABV version of their flagship brown ale. Between the recipe upgrade and the dispense, the beer's complexity level shot upwards, so as well as caramel and chocolate, I was getting raspberry, strawberry, cork oak and a warm savoury beefiness as well. There was a real sense of old-fashioned beer about this, far from the homogeneity of style strictures and consistent production, and the result was all the better for it. A freshly drawn tot of this would be an excellent finisher to any evening's drinking.

But my evening wasn't quite done. By law there has to be an IPA in the line-up, and Dead Centre did the honours there with Daredevil, a red one. Red IPA isn't usually my thing but this was a good one, letting the Centennial and Amarillo hops do the talking without any toffee interference from the crystal malt. A raspberry sharpness in the foretaste was the only way it tasted red, while after that it was all dank and oily hops coating the palate and creating a long resinous finish. Someone voiced a comparison with BrewDog's 5 AM Saint, back when that was bold and impressive, and I concur: this had a similar level of wow factor.

The beer aside, it was wonderful to just get out and about of a Saturday, and to catch up with beer friends I haven't seen since The Unpleasantness started. A big thanks to Liam and the Dead Centre team for hosting, and Brian of Craic Beer Community for being the catalyst. Less thanks to Irish Rail for making my train home into a bus replacement. I've now seen parts of the midlands no one should ever have to see.

Mixing it up

Shane Long talks to the Dublin Ladies Craft Beer Society

A footnote to Monday's post on the Franciscan Well Easter Beer Festival today. Founder Shane was keen to show off the new education centre that they've put into the upstairs bar, the walls decorated with flavour wheels, brewing diagrams and tutored tasting instructions.

Last year the bar was dedicated to some special cask beers from Molson Coors stablemate Sharp's, and it was the same this time, only with a bigger range and shinier handpumps. With all the Irish beer available downstairs I had only one small taste of one of them: Six Hop, a 3.8% ABV bitter which tasted terribly dull and biscuity for something that uses the H-word in its name. How big a batch did they put the six hop cones into?

The 'Well itself had a couple of new releases downstairs. One is called Eggenstien and is a 5.5% ABV pale brown German bock. It tastes quite inoffensive, striking the right balance between rounded grain flavours and the grassy tang of noble hops, but the smell of it really got to me. I struggle with German noble hops at the best of times and this beer just reeked of the green nettle acridity that turns my stomach. I'm sure it will have its fans among the bock-drinking community but it was just too full-on for me.

I try to avoid writing about beers that are simply blends of other beers. Some of the more geek-focused continental breweries are a little too fond of doing this and I don't feel obliged to provide space for their mixes. However, I'm making an exception for Franciscan Well's Spring Fusion, also available at the Easter Festival. This is a straight saison blended with the brewery's longtime flagship Rebel Red. The result is a fascinating combination of crisp tartness next to totally incongruous red ale toffee and caramel. It shouldn't work, but it does: at once palate cleansing, thirst quenching and comfortingly warm.

Of course, The Franciscan Well are not merely confined to Cork these days. The long reach of Molson Coors and their PR team brought beers and brewer to Dublin last month for an evening's ligging in the opulent surrounds of House bar and restaurant on Leeson Street. After a 4km walk in the warm Spring sunshine, the free Blue Moon on arrival was the nicest Blue Moon I've ever tasted. Mind you, sucking the orange slice was even better than the beer. We also got a try of the new seasonal Summer Honey Wheat. It's pretty poor, as it goes, much like the other Blue Moon seasonals: an aroma consisting of no more than a trace of sugar, and a flavour to match. Some minor honey stickiness is just about detectable on the finish but very little else is going on. I'd swap back to regular Blue Moon in an instant.

Also on the preview list for the evening was Chieftain, an IPA which looks to be joining the permanent draught line-up. It's 5.5% ABV and is another one of those dark oily pale ales, like Porterhouse Hop Head or JW Sweetman Pale Ale. This is, of course, a good thing. The hop combination is Tettnanger, Magnum and Citra, though it hides this at first, presenting burnt caramel and toffee in the aroma to begin with. This dark malt theme continues in the first sip, some almost coffeeish notes come into play, quickly followed by a dank green funk of the sort found in many an amber ale, and bringing to mind BrewDog's 5AM Saint in particular. Rather than bitterness, there's a sharp citric piquancy, followed by a long resinous, palate-coating finish. Those who prefer their IPAs to have a bit more fresh zing to them might rather think of this as an amber, but either way it's a good beer and a welcome addition.

On the above evidence, Molson Coors Ireland seems to be strongly outperforming its American and British brethern.

Dispense with the formalities

Cask Thornbridge Halcyon was a pleasant surprise on the cask beer engine at Against the Grain a few months ago. I had encountered an aged version at a festival a while back so it was interesting to compare notes with a spanking fresh pint.

It's a very different experience, with the powerful pithy hops exploding on the palate. Yet, amazingly, it's not in any way acrid or harsh and I don't reckon that can be chalked up to the balancing effect of the malt, even though it's all of 7.4% ABV. Which leaves me wondering if it's the smoothing effect of the cask dispense at work, or maybe just a brewer who knows what he's doing when it comes to putting a recipe together. Anyway, fresh Halcyon is recommended.

Over at the keg end of the bar  that evening they had Thornbridge's Chiron on. Since it's a fancypants import keg beer I was surprised to get given a pint: usually it's a 375ml glass for this sort, but I wasn't complaining. I first encountered this last time I was in London and enjoyed it; this time it just didn't work as well, lacking in body and flavour and with its tiny bit of dank tasting like 5am Saint's weedy little brother. Not enough flavour power for a sipper and too strong to be properly sessionable, it was neither one thing nor another. Perhaps the lesson here is not to follow the double IPA with a mere American-style pale ale.

I suppose I should have one of Thornbridge's tall handsome bottles next to complete the set. Fortunately I found their Vienna lager Kill Your Darlings in Redmond's recently. It's been out a while but this was the first time I'd seen it in real life and it's a truly superb beer. A spot-on shade of teak and wonderfully silky, having a texture that's full without being heavy and the gentle carbonation of German lager served from a wooden barrel.

The flavour reminds me of the first time I tasted Samuel Adams Boston Lager and the redefinition of what malt tastes like: rich and biscuity with some mild caramel and even a little smoke. There's a certain bitterness to it too: some liquorice and sour plum, and the Amarillo hops bring just a slight overtone of soft juicy peach. It's a tragedy that such an insanely quaffable beer costs close to €5 a pop in the off licence. Just as well the draught Thornbridge beers are no strangers to our better pubs then.

My hop nemesis

Though they've been a regular feature on this blog for most of its (exactly) eight years, I had sort of lost track of what BrewDog were doing, beerwise, these days. Outside of the mostly on-trade-related news feed there seemed to be an endless line of hyper-expensive limited editions, none of which really interested me. Now things seemed to have calmed down, with a couple of beers I've been hearing great things about. Time to see for myself.

First up was Dead Pony Club. This is a 3.8% ABV pale ale and so immediately invites comparison with the excellent Jarl by Fyne Ales. Both make extensive use of Citra for a mouthwatering zestiness, but BrewDog couldn't help taking a big scoop from the Simcoe sack, and while this pungent hop just about works in fuller beers like 5am Saint and Punk IPA, it completely takes over here. My experience was of a sharp cheesey foretaste, followed by burning, followed by watery fizz, though I have to give props for the sweet lasting peachiness in the aftertaste.

I'm well aware that I'm in a minority when it comes to my problem with Simcoe. Without its influence I imagine I'd have enjoyed Dead Pony Club more. As it stands, however, it's another reason why I'm rarely minded to run out and try new BrewDogs these days. So it was with trepidation that I popped the next one.

Libertine is nearly double the strength and a very dark but clear red. "Let the sharp bitter finish rip you straight to the tits. Swallow hard - this slut bites" according to the ten-year-old who wrote the label copy, but while the aroma is mostly citrus with a bit of Simcoe funk (it's 100% Simcoe), the flavour puts dark chocolate at the centre, made sticky with a lacing of treacle. And then the Simcoe comes out, held in check by the dark malt which gives us a bit of biscuit to go with the cheese.

Libertine reminds me a lot of 5am Saint, with its mix of heavy malt and funky hop. A pint would probably be too much, but 33cls was enjoyable.

I'd hoped I'd be able to get a bottle of Jack Hammer to go with these but it seems to be in very short supply. I just had a taste of this at the Voyager launch (thanks Alex, and welcome to the blogosphere!) and was very impressed. It's 7.2% ABV and BrewDog claim it's the bitterest beer they've ever brewed. So it must have been the Voyager I was drinking beforehand which left it tasting soft and fruity, packed with mango and passionfruit, reminding me of the exquisitely balanced pale ales put out by Stone. And best of all: no Simcoe, just Centennial and Columbus. Good doggie.

Office rocker

"It was the cheapest Italian craft beer the importer could get", said my drinks-trade source who will remain anonymous. He was talking about the Brewfist range which has recently appeared on our shelves and which has been getting less than enthusiastic notes from Irish drinkers online.

At around €4 a bottle it's pricey enough stuff so I wasn't going to shell out on the whole range, based on what I'd heard. So, to begin, just Burocracy: an IPA.

There's a pleasing spritzy zest aroma as it pours, which is a good start, and above the dark amber body the head is the colour of old ivory, something I associate with unctuous palate-burning American hop napalm. There's lots of haze though, and this is where my criticisms start: bottle-conditioning does not sit well with me when it comes to hop-driven beers in small bottles. Brewers of the world: please stop it.

The zestiness is gone by the time I get a proper sniff of it, replaced by a mildly catty pungency. And not fresh cat neither. At the front of the flavour there's a short blast of Simcoe or something very like it but there's no follow-through: it just vanishes leaving a lasting bitterness on the palate. It all came across like a slightly wonky version of 5am Saint to me.

It's not bad beer, though, and certainly not dull. I'm not put off the brewery and intend to get round to the others in due course. But I'd say it's not what anyone is looking for in Italian beer. Anywhere you see this on sale there'll be examples of the Americans doing the style better.

The limit of creativity

Brewdog didn't even bother putting one of their colourful diatribes on the label of Hops Kill: it's just an ad for their share ownership thingy. Label copy that tries to sell you something other than the beer behind it is a new one on me. I guess they reckon anyone who's going to buy this limited-edition imperial red ale has already made up their mind before getting close enough to the bottle to read it.

It's a viscous little number, pouring relatively flat at first and only gradually foaming up towards the end. I was expecting 5AM Saint with extra booziness, as it's 7.8% ABV, but that's not how it transpired. 5AM's aggressive Simcoe and Nelson Sauvin hopping is something I can only handle in small doses, producing a gradual cheese-and-cat-pee character that starts me regretting my pint about three quarters of the way through. Thankfully, Hops Kill doesn't have this.

Perhaps the dry-hopping is less intensive, or perhaps the additional alcohol lends it balance, but the hops here are pleasantly and unapologetically bitter at first, and only showing off their flavour towards the end where, yes the neighbourhood Tom has been marking his territory, but it's balanced with enough sweet sherbet and dry roast to clean up the worst excesses.

At the end of the bottle I'd have another. That doesn't happen with 5AM Saint.

Howls of derision

I really enjoyed my afternoon of quality drinking at The Salt House in Galway city a few weeks back. They kindly agreed to host the Beoir AGM, and laid on some very decent beer and tasty food. I had to split horribly early for the last train back to Dublin (6.05pm: why, Irish Rail, why?) but on my way out manager Taram charitably thrust a bottle of BrewDog Bitch Please and a pint glass at me.

This barrel-aged barley wine was produced in association with Three Floyds and is all of 11.5% ABV. It smells it, with a serious boozy waft coming off the light beige head that sits thickly over the dark copper liquid. After the alcohol there's a blast of oak and then some peaty phenols: all this before even the first sip. The taste is as loud as one might expect, all blaring peatiness and alcoholic heat. The only vaguely subtle bit is a teeny hint of oxidised wet cardboard at the back, but that fades quickly. A mouth-coating viscosity means that at least you get good value for each mouthful: the flavours stay with you for quite a while. Like 5am Saint, this is perhaps a beer to finish a session on.

Overall I found Bitch Please quite brash and unsophisticated, but it did last almost the whole way back across to the right-hand coast.

Back in the familiar confines of the Bull & Castle I find a new English beer on the beer engine: Wychwood's Dog's Bollocks. I am hounded by poorly-named canine-themed British beer, it would seem. It arrived a rather hazy pale orange but there was not a thing wrong with it: beautifully cool and sparkling busily. The zingy aroma leaped out and the first sip delivered a bitter citric smack around the chops followed by softer orange sherbet notes and a little bit of incense spice in the finish. For something that seems designed as a hoppy pick-me-up it's decently full-bodied, and though nowhere near as long-legged as the barley wine above it does leave a pleasant waxy bitterness in its wake.

I hope to see it again on the Bull & Castle's cask rotation, though obviously I won't be ordering it by name.

Fall forward

The new autumn seasonal from Sierra Nevada, Tumbler is a medium-strength brown ale, 5.5% ABV and a dark mahogany in the glass, topped by thick off-white foam. The nose gives fresh, lightly mandarin, hops and a hint of caramel sweetness. It's quite understated in the flavour department, though what's there is nicely balanced between burnt treacley caramel and punchy hop fruits. The hops come out on top at the end, finishing bitter with a hint of saccharine.

I can't help being reminded of lighter, the punchier American and American-style amber ales like Speakeasy Prohibition or Brewdog 5am Saint: they do this sort of thing better. Tumbler is much heavier and creamier in texture, perhaps intended to be a softer, more huggable beer. But those typically Sierra Nevadan hops are just sending me the wrong signals: begging to be taken out for a wild time. A draught version is currently on tap in a couple of Dublin pubs and the hops are even more subdued there, to the point of invisibility.

It's hard to fault it, though. Tasty, smooth and filling it's a nice one to have on hand on a chilly evening, and there's no shortage of those round here right now.

Gone to the dogs

I hadn't been expecting quite so many non-Danish beers to be available at the Copenhagen Beer Festival last week, but it was great to see them. Most were presented by importers, but a couple of foreign breweries had taken their own stand. One of whom, I was delighted to see, was BrewDog. I even braved the hordes on Friday evening -- the most crowded I ever saw the hall -- for a quick taste of Tactical Nuclear Penguin, just to see what the fuss was all about. It's pretty much undrinkable. At 32% ABV it's certainly boozy, but not quite strong enough to be spirity as such. The oak character from the base imperial stout has been concentrated by freeze-distilling into a rather sharp and harsh medicinal flavour and on swallowing produces a burning, tarry aftertaste. I can't imagine it'll work for most beer people, nor many whisky people either.

Nor was I impressed by a couple of others they had on: 5AM Saint was my kick-off beer on the first day -- a hopped-up red ale at a modest 5% ABV. The nose is marvellous: fresh and fruity promising luscious things to come. But they don't materialise: I found the flavour quite acidic and unpleasant, the hop-juice sensation compounded by a thin body. I had great hopes for Bashah, the black IPA they've produced with Stone from California, but I finished the glass confused. Once again a fantastic aroma, this time mixing those succulent fresh hops with rich chocolate, but they didn't taste right together -- harsh again, and a bit stale-tasting; perhaps even Bovrilesque. It's nearly wonderful, but I just couldn't get behind it. So, a bit of a bust on the BrewDog front for this drinker: in the words of the boul' Larry Gogan, they just didn't suit me. I did, however, get a taste of the new-recipe Hardcore IPA and heartily recommend it over any of these.

I had much better luck down at the stand of an importer of American beers who had lots of Flying Dog beers I've never had. I made a beeline for Raging Bitch and loved it. A warming spice coming from the Belgian yeast and a wonderful fresh mandarin hop flavour on top of it, fading elegantly to peaches and ice tea. Smooth, characterful and totally inappropriately named. Staying with the strong and pale, I also liked Horn Dog barley wine, a deep brown-red ale, just over 10% ABV, and with strange and interesting banana esters undercutting a citric hop bite; and Double Dog pale ale with its rich toffee mattress bounced on by massive zingy hops -- marvellously sippable at a stonking 11.5% ABV. On the dark side there was the wholly unsubtle Schwarz Dog, loaded with those lovely smoked ham notes I associate most with Schlenkerla beers while also providing proper schwarzbier roastiness, finishing dry like a porter, while also being big and warm, as one might expect at 7.8% ABV. The very dog's, this lot.

A respectful distance from these delights, the same stand was also selling Cave Creek Chili Beer, a Mexican travesty that seems to be doing for chillis what Desperados does for tequila: associating them vaguely with beer as a gimmicky marketing exercise. It's actually pretty hot, with a green-tasting chilli burn. But, like Desperados, there's no real beer character here. This is occasionally available in Ireland, but I think I'll be giving it a miss.

Celebrities were fairly thin on the ground, though I did spot this guy (left) towards the end of Saturday. However, I missed the special beers he'd brought along from Brooklyn Brewery. I did get a taste of a couple of the regulars. Putting the cart before the horse, my opinion of Local No. 2 is that it's a lot like Local No. 1. Except I've not reviewed Local No. 1 here yet. I will soon. The second edition is in a vaguely Belgian style: strong, dark and sugary with some big banana esters. Nice in its own way but there are plenty of actual Belgian dark ales I'd have in its place. I much prefer it when Garrett gets the hops out, and really liked the Brooklyn Monster Ale. It's a kicking barley wine which, while plainly packed with citric American hops, is balanced beautifully with super-sweet caramel malt base: as chewy and hoppy as you could wish a US barley wine to be.

One last set of North American imports came from a stall pushing the beers from Schoune, a farm brewery in Quebec. Obviously there's a major Frencher-than-the-French theme happening. There's also some serious maple notes in the beers, most of all in A L'Erable which is made using lots of maple syrup -- produced on site like all of the ingredients. The syrup has fermented out a lot of the way, so the base beer is dry, but there's a lovely woody maple taste left behind. Erabière is even more mapley, especially on the nose, though actually tastes sour. Strange and very interesting. On the sweeter side there's Premier Baiser, a very drinkable sweet blonde, and Trip des Schoune, made with hemp for a light and spicy sweetness. On the darker side there's 1608 which is warm and roasty and Hivernale an incredible sandalwood-spicy winter beer which is like drinking incense. Lovely.

Some more beers from abroad next, before we get back to Denmark.