Showing posts with label allagash white. Show all posts
Showing posts with label allagash white. Show all posts

15 November 2024

The international scene

I mentioned earlier this week that beer in Norwich tends to be predominantly local, or at least British, which is fair enough: that's what I went there to explore. A few imports did happen my way, however.

One of them, admittedly, was muled over by the Swedish delegates and shared at a lunch. This is Wit Impériale by Smedsbo Slott, about whom I know nothing and have nothing to tell you. I really should have asked one of the Swedes. I don't normally approve of messing with the basics of witbier -- good rarely comes of it. I thought at first that this was another poorly devised act of "creativity", it being 13% ABV. "A blueish tone and a scent of mushrooms" goes the brewery's official description, unhelpfully. It's definitely amber, not blue, and I didn't get any mushroom. My first impression from the aroma was that it's a hot mess, densely packed with solvent notes, ready to burn any body part placed near it. When I braved a sip, however, I found it rather more enjoyable, giving a rather jolly flavour of stewed apple and a brush of caramelised sugar. It's a long way from witbier as it is commonly constructed, but it works as a shareable sipping beer, perhaps best suited to a Swedish winter.

Hitachino Nest beer seems to have vanished from Ireland again, which is a shame. I spotted one of the range I'd never had before in the pub fridge at The White Lion, where they keep a modest but well-chosen selection of foreign beers. This is Saison du Japon, ostensibly their take on Belgian saison but using malted sake rice. That sounds intriguing but it turned out rather plain: 5% ABV and with pleasant enough notes of baked pear, but not much else. Saison should have something more interesting going on, be it farmyard earthiness or exotic spicing. This does none of that, staying reticent and respectful, like a Japanese stereotype.

Finally, at Bier Draak, I spotted a bottle in the fridge which I have been meaning to get onto this blog since it became a cult beer a couple of years ago. I'm reasonably sure that a friend from Maine brought me some Allagash White a few years before this blog started, but I had no memory of how it tasted, nor any idea why it's suddenly so popular. Now I have one of the two answers. I mean, it's a good beer. What I liked most was the smoothness: it really slips back silkily in a way that encourages serial quaffing. There are no sharp edges; none of the spikes of coriander spice or citric zest that add character to its Belgian counterparts. There's a pleasant element of candied lemon in the flavour but I got little complexity beyond that. It's not a beer for complexity, though, being more about the feels than the taste. I understand the attraction of something which places few demands on your attention and offers no challenges to your palate. Creating that without turning out something bland is an impressive feat.

Three beers from three continents, but all derived from recipes that originated in Belgium. That little country still holds an important place in the world of contemporary beer.

26 May 2021

Wit is it?

Poor neglected witbier is today's subject. The style's problem, as I see it, is that the archetype Hoegaarden has perfected it and there isn't much room for improvement. I'll grant you St Bernardus may have managed it, but otherwise* it's not something worth brewing because you'll only get "not as good as Hoegaarden" as feedback. I don't think any other beer style suffers from quite the same issue.

Anyway, I'm giving two other Belgian examples a whirl, beginning with De Brabandere's Bavik Super Wit. The brewery has a raft of tied pubs in west Flanders, which is presumably why this exists, a Hoegaarden-matching 5% ABV. Immediate negative points were scored when it poured completely clear in the glass, looking identical to a pils. I gave the lees a good shake but no extra haze was forthcoming. They've nailed the soft wheaty texture but the distinctive witbier flavours are very muted. Coriander is no more than a mildly soapy twang, and I couldn't pick out the alleged orange zest at all. What remains is a dry grain effect, bringing us back to the similarity with pils. Nothing wrong with pils, but not what I was after. This is a very dull affair, and not even the glorious sunshine could save it for me.

I figured La Chouffe would make a better fist of things. For one, they've struck out on their own with a bold 6.5% ABV on Chouffe Blanche. That gnome has hollow legs. Again, it was initially clear in the glass but a swirl at the bottom of the bottle gave it some haze, as well as an oddly deep orange colour. Spices and herbs fill the aroma pleasingly, while citrus zest sits up front in the flavour. I was expecting it to be a little hot and heavy, but if anything it's thin, lacking that rich Belgian warmth. I guess when your flagship is 8% ABV you're really slumming it down here in the mid-sixes. It does bear a closer resemblance to La Chouffe Blond than Hoegaarden, though. A peppery spice suggests that La Chouffe's signature yeast is involved here somewhere. And maybe that's the key to breakout witbier: don't clone Hoegaarden; go somewhere else with it. This didn't deliver what I wanted from a wit, but I still really enjoyed it. I can see it being a nice trade-down for the dedicated La Chouffe drinker looking for something lighter but still packed with gnomeish character.

Conclusions? Err... still Hoegaarden for me please. Or Bernardus when I'm feeling fancy. The Chouffe does indicate that there's room for exploration here still, though.

*yes, yes, I hear you, Allagash White fanboys and fangirls.