Saisons and seasons

Marks & Spencer offers a significant range of beer styles under its own brand. OK, it's not exactly cutting edge -- no brut IPA or mixed fermentation ales -- but if you want to learn what, let's say, "saison" means, M&S is a safe space where you can explore that in a controlled environment. But how good a steer will this high-end grocer give you? I thought I'd find out.

I'm starting straight with M&S Cornish Saison, brewed by St Austell and I don't know if this is a twist on one of the brewery's own beers, as M&S editions often are. It's 5.9% ABV and perfectly clear, a bright gold colour: there's the first point of differentiation with most saisons. The flavour is properly saisonish, though, delivering a mix of herbal bath salts, crisp grain husk, honey and popcorn. It is all a bit muted, which I guess is to be expected from a supermarket take on the style. You do get an honest impression, however, so I consider this a success.

Moving on to advanced level, there's the Clementine Saison from another West Country operation, Arbor Brewery. This is roughly the same colour as the previous one with just a little more haze to it. And the flavour profile is broadly similar, in that it has the crisp dryness and a touch of spice as well. The farmhouse complexity is buried under a thick fruit syrup sweetness which I'm guessing is the clementine element. If the first one taught you what saison is, this one shows you what happens if you flavour it with clementines. Fair enough, and job done. It's not a great beer, though.

Are the above pair a fair supermarket representation of saison as a concept? Yes, I think so, in a broad supermarket way. You get a sense of the basics and can move on from there to more advanced saison, if you wish.

M&S operates a 3-for-€7 deal which is decent value, and I filled this one out with the latest in the seasonal hacks of Camden Hells. I didn't particularly like the autumn one but let's see what winter brings brought us, in the form of Camden Hells In Hibernation Lager. The strength remains constant at 4.6% ABV. It's the pale and hazy yellow of weak lemon drink, the head fading quickly to nothing. There's a pleasant citrus spritz in the aroma but the flavour concentrates that into a heavy syrupy, perfumey thing. The classic lager vibe which is the Hells signature move is buried under the hop concentrate here, unbalancing the whole thing. I don't know who needs to hear this but Camden Hells is fine as it is and doesn't need dicked around with. Yes I'll keep buying these so yes I'm part of the problem. Save me from myself, Camden Town.

Deep breath. So that's what I got when I went to Marks & Spencer.