Streaming service

A new pair from new Dublin brewer Lineman today, with some stylish new can branding.

I began with Torrent, a straight-up, no nonsense, no gimmicks porter of 5.2% ABV. Given the success of the brewery's Astral Grains stout, I had high hopes. Chocolate is the main feature here, sweet and creamy, in both the aroma and foretaste. After this there's a nutty bite, some coconut sweetness and a jolt of espresso on the end. That's enough, I think. Nothing complicated or weird; a good balance between the sweet and bitter sides. Pretty much everything you should want from a porter. Any chance of a cask?

The companion piece is a similarly straight-up, no-foolin', west coast IPA called Zephyr. It really does channel San Diego classics like Sculpin right from the beginning. It's a pale golden shade and smells sharply of grapefruit pith and peel. That squeaky dry citrus is front and centre in the flavour throughout, with just enough malt roundness to propel the hops on their way. It's 6% ABV but could pass for a degree or so more, with plenty of substance and even a little heat. Time was, I would have found something like this unpleasantly bitter and hard to take. Now it's a welcome change from the more recent trend for soft and sweet IPAs. This one tastes finished.

Could Lineman be our saviour from the stylistic silliness that continues to infect beer in Ireland and beyond? Recent releases suggest it just might be.