Kiuchi cutesy coup

Until recently, the Hitachino Nest beers from the Kiuchi brewery were imported into Ireland by the Yamamori restaurant chain. That was fine, and I was glad they're around, but it did tend to limit their availability. Recently, however, distribution has moved to a full-time beer importer, Grand Cru, which has made them more accessible and added a couple to the range which I hadn't had before.

Hitachino Nest Amber Ale is one of them. It's a much deeper colour than most amber ales, a deep shade of mahogany, topped with lots of froth. It poured thickly, seeming denser than one might expect for 6% ABV. The doppelbock visuals are carried through into the aroma: it smells of liquorice herbs and chewy toffee. The flavour adds burnt caramel to this, and a lager cleanness. Very doppelbock indeed. As such, it's enjoyable: flavoursome, filling and warming. Maybe not the best choice for al fresco drinking on an August afternoon, and not at all like the American standard for amber ale, but quality is quality.

The next one calls itself a Real Ginger Ale, something that suggests light summer fizz to me. The reality is 8% ABV and dark red again, this time murky with it. There's a gentle spice in the aroma, though otherwise we're dealing with another malt-heavy medium-dark ale. And so it goes with the flavour: this is very sweet, an assortment of chewy caramels, buttery toffees and chocolate pralines. There's no kick from the ginger, and only the faintest of contributions to the flavour. If handed to me blind I would likely guess this is an English strong ale or barley wine: what heat there is is solely derived from the alcohol. Like the previous beer, this one confounds expectations, but doesn't do as good a job of it. Though without obvious flaws, it fails to deliver on its basic promise. That anthropomorphic ginger root on the label need not look so delighted with itself.

The Hitachino Nest range is extensive, and most of them have never arrived on these shores. I would love if Grand Cru's new arrangement means we'll be getting more of them. In the meantime, the also-highly-unorthodox Nipponia remains the best of the bunch. Try it if you see it.