Broad horizons

An Irish brewery that specialises in Belgian-style beer making an eastern European take on a classic British style. That's what's in front of me. Mescan Seven Virtues Baltic Porter is the latest in their series of special editions. It's the proper 9.5% ABV and, with a nod to Belgium, is highly carbonated. It settles on pouring to a very Belgian bouffant of foam over a dark brown body.

The aroma is an even mix of toasty roast and bitter dark chocolate with aniseed overtones. Promising. Bitterness is to the fore, something I always enjoy in proper Baltic porter, though it doesn't go overboard with it. It doesn't go overboard with anything, in fact: the big surprise is how well hidden all that alcohol is. After the initial boiled-veg-and-liquorice there's a little chocolate and some sweeter caramel for balance. The big carbonation is also nicely muted and the texture turns out soft and mellow, not prickly.

In its native lands, Baltic porter comes in half-litre bottles rather than squat little 33s. The drinkability here had me wishing for the full measure. Well played Mescan, let's see some other international styles.