In the loup

A new pair of Wicklow Wolf beers arrived in early May, adding respectively to the brewery's collaboration and limited edition series.

Mayo's Mescan is not really known for its collaborations, and as a steadfast producer of Belgian-style bottled beers, their logo on a can is an odd sight. At least the beer is Belgian style, a witbier called Wit or Witout You. The specs are almost orthodox: 5% ABV with coriander and orange zest, though there's an extra addition of black pepper too, just for fun. It's quite fruit forward on that, with a definite sweet mandarin juicy quality. The herbs and spices are subtle, and meld into the spicy effects of the Belgian yeast. That in turn adds a banana sweetness as well. I hoped for more black pepper than I got, and it leans a little too far on the sweet side than is ideal, but it's still a very nice beer and a worthy interpretation of witbier. I think the host brewer got their money's worth out of their guest's expertise.

Is This Pop Art? they ask next. The name references the use of the Cryo Pop hop blend, as though that's still a novelty. It's an 8% ABV double IPA, seemingly on the New England side of the house, judging from the custardy orange-yellow appearance. The aroma is coconut with a bit of tropical fruit, making me think I was in for a cloying piña colada experience. But no, the flavour picks the fruit direction and runs with it in a big way. Bouncy boinging pineapple, mango, apricot, guava and passionfruit all feature, given a quick squirt of lime and a glug of something cleanly alcoholic. It's beautiful, and completely devoid of any hazy pitfalls, even as it warms. The only quibble I can think of is that it doesn't taste properly double: it's stupidly drinkable and impossible to sip. I'm sceptical about advances in hop technology in general, and haven't been wowed by Cryo Pop before, but if this is what it's meant to do, I'm on board.

Last time, I remarked that Wicklow Wolf was very good at making stouts. Well here's a couple more strings to their stylistic bow.