Sneaky phonecall

En Stoemlings of Brussels has been on a journey since I visited their miniscule first brewery in 2015, the latest news being the closure of their full-sized production facility and reversion to contract brewing. In between, they managed to push one of my particular ticking buttons with a beer exclusively made for and sold at Brussels airport. It's called +32, after the dialling code for Belgium, is 6.5% ABV and of no stated style. Oh, I do like a challenge.

From the strength, I lazily assumed it would be a blonde ale, but it's more amber coloured. There's a spritz of fruity hops in the aroma and a hint of toffee crystal malt so I think we're into Belgian IPA territory. It's light-bodied and very fizzy. There's no big hop explosion, but that's very much in keeping with Belgian takes on Belgian-style IPA. Instead it's a dry tannic tang and a twist of grapefruit peel. Anyone in search of rounded and warming Belgian esters will be disappointed. I found it a bit severe, stripping my tooth enamel before curdling in my stomach. The finish is a very unBelgian mix of water and fizz.

It's not great: over-attenuated, unsure of what it's meant to be, and seems to be trying some sort of modern edge rather than cuddly Belgian comfort. But I bought it and am now hundreds of miles away from the complaints department. You win this round, Brussels airport.