Complexity through strength

I like a bit of cedar spice in a beer when I can get it, so was attracted on sight to this cedar-aged American-style barley wine from Czech brewer Sibeeria. I don't know why they decided to call it Nostalgie 70s but that's what we're stuck with. It's 10.7% ABV.

In the glass it looks appropriately rich: a luxurious dark amber colour, just very slightly hazed. There's no sign of the cedar in the aroma but I'll grant that it does smell like an American barley wine: sweetly unctuous with a layer of zesty hard candy added to some of the sugar. It's as thick as it smells, and surprisingly not hot for all of the strength and density. I'm guessing it's done with wood chips rather than barrel ageing as there's no spirit aspect either.

The flavour is fairly straightforward, with lots of floral honey, lemon bon bons, and toffee pudding. This is very much a dessert of a beer, making serious use of its caramelised malts. The American hops are present but not much more than an afterthought: if you came to it seeking classic Bigfoot, you'll be disappointed. The cedar takes a moment or two to emerge, but it's there in the finish, adding a seasoned sprinkling of peppery spice. I don't know that the beer needed it, but it's welcome, and helps offset the otherwise intense sweetness.

This is a very fine beer, and it's a shame there aren't more like it. The American barley wine combination of big malt and big hops is an old-school winning formula but unfortunately rather out of fashion these days. I didn't think that need would be answered from Prague, but that's just a lucky break for me.